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DRL Conversion for Hyundai Tucson 2008 1st gen

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Jump to the how-to

This is probably the easiest modification you can imagine, although it took a bit of time to figure out. When we imported our car from the US to Canada, we had to get Daytime Running Lights installed, as the US spec vehicles did not have this standard.

The DRL requirement is pretty broad, but basically, whenever the car is moving, your vehicle is required to have ‘some’ front facing lights on. The standard modification is to purchase a kit like this, which is just a relay you put in parallel with your existing headlight (or parking light) relay, and then wire up to turn on with your ignition.

Not particularly complicated, but it’s extra stuff you have to mount in the car, and connect etc. Surely there is a better way? Even in the US, we already drove the car with the headlights on the whole time. The car automatically turned them off when you stopped the car. But the DRL requirement means that even if the light switch is in the OFF position, the lights must still come on when driving. Lucky for me I had gotten hold of the service manual for our car, and was able to dig through the limited wiring diagrams provided.

Wiring Diagram for Light Switch
Signal names

From the above diagrams we can see that when the switch is in the ON (ll) position, the system connects “Lighting switch ground” to “Tail lamp switch”, “Head lamp switch” and “Auto light switch”. And when the switch is in the Parking Lights (l) position, it connects “Lighting switch ground” to “Tail lamp switch” only. When it’s OFF, no connections are made.

I couldn’t find the full circuit diagram for the lighting switch, but the circuit diagram for the Auto Lighting circuit (which our car doesn’t have) seemed like a good starting point.

Auto Lighting Circuit Diagram

If we just ignore all the connections to the Auto light unit, we probably get a good idea of the circuit. The key take away is that battery power is only provided to the headlamp relay when the ignition is on. So in theory, if we just short “Lighting switch ground” to “Head lamp switch”, the lights will come on and off with “IGN2”.

Another thing to keep in mind, is that this modification would then not result in your tail lamps being illuminated. This is fine from a legal perspective, but means that at night, you must ensure your light switch is in the ON position.

I considered just connecting the “Tail lamp switch” to “Lighting switch ground” at all times as well, but it leads to complications if you want to use your parking lights. On the Hyundai Tucson, the parking lights come on and off with the tail lamps. Additionally, default behaviour is that when you turn the car off, no matter what position your light switch is in, all lights turn off when the car is locked. Including parking lights. If you want the parking lights to stay on, you have to leave the driver’s side door open, turn the lights from ON/Parking to OFF, and then back to ON/Parking. Then when you close and lock they’ll stay on. Were I to permanently connecting the “Tail lamp switch” to “Lighting switch ground”, there would be no way to get the circuit into an OFF state, so that I could then activate the parking lights after I locked the car. It’s not that I’ve ever used my parking lights for their intended function, but I still have to pass an Ontario Safety inspection, and it’s not clear to me whether they check actual functionality, or just that I have working lights in the parking lights.

Instructions:

  • Remove steering column footwell cover (2 screws)
  • Remove steering wheel upper cover (clips into lower cover)
  • Remove steering wheel lower cover (3 screws under steering wheel column)
  • Unplug Lighting Switch connector on left hand side.
Head lamp wiring harness connector
  • Identify “Head Lamp Switch (15)” and “Lighting switch ground (17)” wires in connector.
Connector wiring diagram
  • To confirm you have correctly identified the wires:
    • Use a multimeter to confirm that pin 17 is shorted to vehicle ground.
    • Switch the Light switch to the OFF position and confirm no short between 14, 15, 16 and 17
    • Switch the Light switch to position l and confirm short between 14 and 17, but not between 15, 16 and 17
    • Switch the Light switch to position ll and confirm short between 14, 15, 16 and 17
  • Using whatever your preferred method is, make a permanent connection between pins 17 and 15. I took some of the insulation off the wires behind the connector and soldered a jumper cable in-between.
  • Reconnect Lighting Switch connector.
  • Test lighting works as expected:
    • With ignition on, Headlamps are on in all lighting switch positions (OFF, l and ll)
    • With ignition on, Tail lamps and Parking lights are on in Positions l and ll

Retrofitting a 2008 Hyundai Tucson with Keyless Entry

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We purchased a second hand car a few years ago. When we got it, it came with one key, and no keyless entry remote. Some 2008 Hyundai Tucson’s came with a keyless entry remote, but there was no way for me to determine if our car had the necessary hardware. If it did, I could simply purchase a new key and get it re-programmed. However queries with Hyundai only resulted in new-car sales pitches, and I wasn’t going to risk wasting $100 to buy a key and get it re-programmed with no guarantee.

Instead, I installed a garage-remote receiver in my car. The car has central-locking which is triggered by using the key in the door. Using a remote controlled relay, one can send the same signal to the central locking system as the key switch does. I used an old receiver I had lying around, similar to this. There are many different remote control kits available that can be used here. The important things to check are that they will operate off 12 VDC and how much current the receiver uses when idle.

The ETACS (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) in the Hyundai Tucson draws up to 4mA black current. That is, when the car is off. Ideally you want a receiver with a similar, or lower current draw. My receiver draws about 10mA. Not ideal, but I did the math and determined that as long as we drove the car once every two weeks, we shouldn’t come anywhere near to flattening the battery (less than 2 Ah per week).

The switches in the door keylocks simply short the signal line to ground to trigger locking/unlocking. I chose to use the passenger/assistant door key switch. If you use the driver door key switch, you may have to push the unlock button twice to get it to open, as when unlocking with the key, once has to twist the key twice.

All the connections you need are by the ETACS, and the ETACS also has space around it (in my manual transmission in any case) to mount the receiver.

The ETACS is located below the gear lever. To access it, one has to remove several sections of fascia. You can see how to do that looking at the photos in the below gallery:

  • Undo screw on driver’s side.
  • Pull front fascia away, unclipping three clips. Then loosen two screws.
  • Unscrew gear lever head. Pull cover off. Loosen 8 screws (blue screws hidden in this photo)
  • Undo screw on passenger’s side.
  • Pull front fascia away, unclipping three clips. Then loosen two screws.

Once all the screws are undone, you can remove the last section by pulling it away from the center console. There are hooks, but no clips, so it should come out fairly easily.

The ETACS has three connectors going into it. They are all clipped in place. The below image shows the important pins, as viewed from behind, the connector (direction from which the wires go in), when plugged in.

While your battery is still connected, check the voltage on each of the pins. Battery+ should read around 12.5V, while all the other ones should measure near 0V. Check for continuity between the Ground, Signal Ground and a grounded part of the vehicle. Then you can try locking and unlocking the car, by shorting the signal ground line and the applicable lock/unlock signal.

Once you’ve tested that these function correctly you should disconnect the battery from the car, and then you can unplug the ETACS to connect the necessary wires.

  • ETACS location with connectors

If you have the tools to solder or crimp the connections in, I definitely advise that. I used dual-row screw terminals, although I acknowledge they’re not the best option for auto use. Connect the Battery+ and ground lines to the power connection on your receiver, preferably including an inline fuse.

My receiver has two switches. Both of them are normally open, and when activated will connect two terminals. As such on the one switch I hooked up the lock and signal ground lines, and on the second switch I connected the unlock and signal ground lines.

Once connected, make sure everything is insulated, and connect it back up. Connect your battery again to test out your remote. If it works correctly, find a way to mount your receiver, using foam where applicable to prevent rattling. Add insulation to any of the wires which may rub against sharp edges.

2008 Hyundai Tucson 2.0 GLS

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I’ve been spoilt in the last few years with the vehicles I’ve been able to drive on a daily basis. And I fear it has spoiled me (1, 2, 3, 4). When we moved to the US, I didn’t have work lined up and had to wait several months for a work permit. During that time we were living off a grad-student salary and savings. Very quickly we realised the need (or extremely strong desire) for a vehicle to get aroudn and out of LA. Although living in close proximity to public transport, it lacked in many areas. So we were shopping on a budget. Definitely pre-owned, but we wanted something we could at least take into the wilderness. 4WD wasn’t off the cards, but not a necessity.

As such our vehicle search landed us with a lowish mileage (72,000 miles) 2008 Hyundai Tucson. It was well-priced, likely as a result of its manual transmission and “small” 2.0 petrol engine. Besides a couple scratches on the bumpers, it was devoid of major dents or indication of having been in an accident. And so it became ours. It had two open recalls, which the Hyundai dealership quickly sorted for us free of charge and has otherwise been problem free.

Since getting it we’ve replaced the tires and brake pads, as well as the front rotors. An oil change and other minor maintenance have been all its required. Almost 10,000 miles in, and it’s still going strong. It doesn’t use oil, has been surprisingly capable off-road, and the platinum paint job hides the dirt well.

But as I mentioned I’ve been spoilt, and this car is underwhelming to drive. My 1996 Audi competes with this Hyundai on features. But it’s a car. It gets us from A to B, and doesn’t complain. The 2.0l engine is surprisingly sprightly, but lacks torque when climbing long hills at highway speeds; of which the Americans are fond. Was it a bad decision? definitely not. As we’ve gotten to know California better, my only regret is not having looked for a 4WD version. The ground clearance has let us do a good amount of exploring, and while the boot (trunk) isn’t large, it’s ample for two people, and camping for four has been achieved. Even in a bit of snow.

If you’re looking for an amazing car. This isn’t it. It has power steering, it has electric windows, and it has a radio (with front loader). It has AC, that battles on the hottest of LA days, but is otherwise capable. It has airbags and we’ve added a towbar. It is a car; it is ours; and we like it.

There isn’t really anythign else to say about it. It has done all that we’ve asked of it, but bar the fact that it is our Tucson, it is nothing special.

Would I suggest you buy one? Sure. If it meets your needs, and you can get one for a good price. Hyundais of this generation have a good reputation for reliability. And I expect this car to convey us many more 10s of thousands of kilometres before we eventually give it up.

Although we could afford a new car, why? We either cycle or take public transport to work. The car sits at home during the week, besides the odd grocery run. Otherwise it sits in waiting; waiting for our next adventure. It is a car, and it is ours.

Brake Pad and Disc replacement – 2008 Hyundai Tucson (1st Gen)

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The rear brake pads on our 2008 Hyundau Tucson were wearing thin; I’d also noted some vibration after extended braking coming from the front wheels. As such I decided to replace the rear brake pads, as well as the front discs and pads.

I had replaced the pads on my old Audi previously, and while it wasn’t difficult, it was still a hassle. In contrast, replacing the Tucson’s pads is something almost anyone can do, all you need is a size 14 socket.

There are a bunch of manufacturers who all make products to fit your car. I went with Bosch, because they were the only brand I recognised, but there are many other good manufacturers. In fact I was quite disappointed by Bosch, who packaged incorrect parts into one of the boxes I ordered. Amazon were quick to send me a replacement set.

two parts with the same number, but different shape

For the 2008 Hyundai Tucson, I purchased the following parts:

Disclaimer

Properly functioning brake pads are a critical safety component of your car. While the process for replacing these parts is relatively straightforward, you shouldn’t perform the task if you’re not comfortable doing it. If anything doesn’t fit right, or looks unusual, rather get it checked out by a professional. Additionally, after installing new components, your brakes take some time to wear in, and won’t function 100% immediately. For more info on properly wearing in your brakes, look here.

Rear Wheel Brake Pad Replacement

Get the car up onto jackstands and remove the rear wheel. The brake system is fairly prominent. The entire mechanism is attached to the back of the wheel with two size 14 bolts that are tensioned with a spring washer. You don’t need to remove these. There are another two size 14 bolts (caliper bolts) that are more accessible and easier to remove that hold the mechanism together.

rear wheel caliper bolt

Loosen just the top bolt, and the mechanism folds open. You can then remove the old pads and runners if you have replacements. Now is the best time to push the piston back in. I opened the brake fluid reservoir and emptied some fluid from it before pushing the piston back. This way you don’t have to worry about it overflowing. I put the old brake pad on top of the piston, and used a C-clamp to push it back in.

Now you can load the new clips and pads. Depending on what you purchase, you may want to switch shims over from your old pads to the new new ones. Installation is easy, and you can also apply some lubricant to surfaces that you want to slide easy (not the brake surfaces!). Slide everything back together and tighten bolt.

Front Wheel Brake Pad Replacement

The front brake pad replacement is basically identical. The only difference is that instead of loosening the top caliper bolt, you’re going to loosen the bottom one and open the mechanism upwards.

Front wheel caliper bolt

Otherwise the process is the same.

 

Front Wheel Brake Disc/Rotor Replacement

The brake rotors only have two bolts holding them in place, but the entire brake mechanism has to be removed as well. For the front wheels you’re going to need a size 17 socket/spanner. For the rear wheels it’s a 14. Loosen both of the bolts, and have something nearby that you can rest the brake mechanism on.

front brake bolts

Front wheel brake bolts

Then you need to loosen the two screws holding the rotor in place. You need a rather large Philips screwdriver. These screws can be quite tight, I used a bit of WD40 to loosen them up, but if you’re going to be reusing the discs/screws, make sure to clean them properly, you want them to be tight.

My old discs came off very easily. Some people have more trouble, especially on older cars, you can try something like this if you’re stuck. The new discs go on in reverse order.