Category Archives: info

Google Maps not loading properly

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This evening I was looking around at a couple areas on Google Maps, and the maps weren’t loading properly. Initially I thought it was my poor internet connection, but waiting for it, moving around, the problem seemed to be bigger. This was in Firefox, so I tried loading up in Chrome, thinking this might solve the problem. But no dice.

I then checked out the Maps app on my Android Tablet, and I seemed to experience the same problem. The below picture shows what it looked like, then a moment later without me changing anything half the image disappeared.

everything was OK, then half of the roads disappeared.

everything was OK, then half of the roads disappeared.

Outage.Report doesn’t show any problems, although several people have recently reported not being able to access it. I tweeted about this and immediately got a response from another user with a similar problem.

No news from Google yet, but we wait and see.


 

UPDATE: 24 hours later and the problem appears to have resolved itself without comment from Google.

Faulty Guitar Hero Guitar – multiple button presses (disassembly)

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A friend recently picked up a 2nd hand Guitar Hero guitar. It worked mostly well, but at times when pressing some of the frets, other frets would also register. This makes playing the games normally a nightmare, as you’re currently being penalised for mistakes you didn’t actually make.

I took it apart but couldn’t find much wrong with it, besides some odd design decisions. /start side rant

There are 5 buttons on the fretboard. So if I were to design it, I would have 6 wires, 1 for each button, and one ground. But the fretboard has 8 connectors. I’m not sure if it allows a wire to be damaged and it to continue to work, but it doesn’t seem so. All I can think is that they had 8 pin connectors, and decided to use them. On the guitar itself, the 8 pins connect to a small PCB, with 6 lines coming from it straight to the microcontroller. It confuses me.

/end side rant

I didn’t have any way to test the guitar, so I gave it back, but my friend returned saying it seemed slightly worse. This was concerning. I got him to return it to me so I could take another look, this time requesting the receiver dongle as well so I could do testing myself.

USB Guitar Hero Dongle

USB Guitar Hero Dongle

The USB receiver is detected by Windows, and shows up as a game controller, so it’s quite easy to test the response of the system. What I found is that when the red button was depressed, the yellow button would trigger for a few 100ms as well. And likewise when depressing the yellow button, the red button would also be triggered for a few 100ms.

Windows sees the Guitar Hero as a gamepad, allowing one to monitor the inputs.

Windows sees the Guitar Hero as a gamepad, allowing one to monitor the inputs.

So again I opened up the guitar, spent some time with a multi-meter probing around, but didn’t find much. The connection from the buttons to the microcontroller all seemed to be in order, without any obvious problems. I don’t know what the problem actually was. The soldering on the board was relatively poor in my opinion, quite a bit of splatter, and several potentially joined lines. I took a scalpel to the board and cleared off any extra residue and solder I noted. Plugged everything back in and it all appears to be functioning 100%.

Main PCB, some solder contamination noted.

Main PCB, some solder contamination noted.

Again, I don’t know what was/is actually wrong with the board. Time will tell if the problem reoccurs, but at the moment it seems to be working well.

Disassembly
The guitar is fairly straightforward to disassemble. The fretboard pops out and is secured by multiple Torx-screws, and inside the PCB is secured by the same screws.

Screws to loosen to open fretboard

Screws to loosen to open fretboard

Two screws holding PCB in place. Slight press-fit.

Two screws holding PCB in place. Slight press-fit.

The body of the guitar is similarly assembled. Remove the face plate and loosen all the screws on the back (11 in total, one is hidden behind a ‘warranty void’ sticker). Take care when separating, as the whammy bar needs to be threaded through, and some wires connect the two halves of the guitar together (namely the battery connector), these can be unplugged fairly easily.

Location of screws to loosen to open guitar body

Location of screws to loosen to open guitar body

The main PCB is secured by screws which can be easily removed to give access to the board.

Location of various items within the guitar body

Location of various items within the guitar body

Electric/Hybrid/Self Driving vehicles

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I’ve long held an interest in the motor industry, and the recent developments in driverless cars are as exciting as they are frightening to me.

hero-01

Tesla Model S 90D

With that in mind, for the past few months I’ve been working on and off on a website dedicated to following the development of the autonomous and electric/hybrid vehicle market in South Africa. And I finally got it to a usable state.

I give you AutosAndElectric.co.za

Where you can find a list of currently available Hybrid and electric vehicles in South Africa as well as charging stations. Hopefully as time goes on space will be made for the influx of autonomous vehicles coming to our shores :)

Website needs some aesthetic work, and logo redesign, but for now I wanted to get it up.

SA Driver’s Licence Tests

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This post gives a summary of the different Driver’s Licence Tests one can take in South Africa. What one is required to perform when taking the test. To do your driver’s licence you need to have a valid Learner’s Licence and appropriate vehicle for the test.

If you need more information on any of the below topics, all the instructions and guidelines are set out in excruciating detail on the eNATIS website, the documents will answer any question you can possibly have about the actual tests. See them all here.

All tests require a pre-trip inspection. These details vary per vehicle, but include such things as ensuring roadworthiness of vehicle, checking for obstructions and leaks as well as testing lights and other required electronics in the vehicle. A full list for the inspections is available for each vehicle in the earlier mentioned documents.

Motorbikes (A / A1)
There is no difference between the tests for an A or A1 licence. The entire test takes place in the yard and consists of a pre-trip inspection, a starting procedure and a skill test. You are required to supply a roadworthy motorcycle to do the test on; trikes, quads and sidecars are not permitted. Note: The bike you use will dictate what licence you get. If you use a 100cc motorbike you will only get an A1 licence, if you use an automatic (eg. scooters), that restriction will be on your licence.

The skills test comprises of the following.

  • Speed management (accelerating to 25kmph and then stopping at a fixed point)
  • Moving off/turn (drive in a straight line and turn left at marked area. Come to a stop before taking off again and turning a left corner again)
  • Lane change (accelerate in a straight line, do a lane change)
  • Incline start (from a stationary position, take off without rolling backwards)
  • Turning speed judgement (turn a corner riding through marked lines within a certain time)
  • Emergency stops/swerves (drive in a straight line, when a light comes on either stop or swerve depending on which light).

Light Motor Vehicles (B / EB)
For both B or EB the test consist of a pre-trip inspection, a yard and a road test. For the B test your vehicle must be a single vehicle with GVM less than 3.5 tons and be longer than 3m. For the EB you must either have an articulated motor vehicle with GCM less than 3.5 tons, or a combination of vehicles where the drawing vehicle has GVM less than 3.5 tons and the trailer is more than 750kg.

For the yard test, both tests consist of:

  • A turn (driving forward and round a corner)
  • An alley dock (reversing into a parking bay that is perpendicular to starting direction)
  • A parallel park (for EB the trailer is uncoupled)
  • An incline start (taking off from a stop on an incline)
  • Additionally an EB test requires a reverse in a straight line (reverse the vehicle while staying within the demarcated area)

The road test requires you to drive through a section of the town along preset routes. Their are certain minimum requirements for the route, but the driving is to test your ability to adhere to the K53 driving guidelines. Driving schools know these routes and the K53 guidelines and allow you to practise the routes before hand.

Heavy Motor Vehicles (C / C1 / EC / EC1)
For all codes the test consists of a pre-trip inspection, a yard and a road test. The test is for vehicles with GVM more than 3.5 tons, vehicles longer than 6m, vehicle combinations where the trailer GVM exceeds 350kg or an articulated vehicle GCM is more than 3.5 tons. Note: the licence you receive will be based on the vehicle you provide to test out on.

The yard test consists of:

  • A turn (driving forward and round a corner)
  • An alley dock (reversing into a parking bay that is perpendicular to starting direction)
  • An incline start (taking off from a stop on an incline)
  • A straight reverse (reverse the vehicle while staying within the demarcated area)

The road test is as for a Light Motor Vehicle (see above).

Conclusion
Getting a driver’s licence in South Africa is often said to be difficult. If you are a capable driver though and are able to follow instructions for half an hour you should have no problems passing the test.

Although expensive, it is often of great advantage to take lessons with an accredited driving school. They will teach you how to pass the test, allow you to practice the yard manoeuvres as well as drive you along the route the road test will take and critique you on your conformance to the K53 guidelines.

Comment Note: Over the next few months I will have minimal access to the blog, as such comments are being locked until further notice.