Flying with a bike & Fork regrease on MTB (Merida Ninety Nine 9.600)

I recently had to fly with my bike, and the airline wasn’t going to take it for me, so I ended up having to freight it. I used Emirates SkyCargo, and they first look at the weight of your item, and then calculate a volumetric weight, based on the dimensions of your package (LXBXH div. 6000).

My bike as it should look

My bike as it should look

Their minimum billing amount is 30kg. My bike and accessories definitely weighed less than this, but the standard bike boxes are significantly larger than what is considered a volumetric 30kg. As such I went to town cutting my box down to size. But to get the box small enough, I also had to almost completely disassembly my bike. I removed the wheels, and took my tubeless tires off the wheels. I removed the saddle, the rear dérailleur, the pedals. Then I took the fork out and separated the brakes from the fork. And then squashed it into my box. And it all fitted. I even got my tent, helmet, pump and one or two other items in.

Cramming my bike into a box

Cramming my bike into a box

So my dad helped when I did all this, and I didn’t pay too much attention when we removed the fork and put all the bearings loose into a small bag. I wish I had, as it would have saved me a couple disassemble and re-assembles of my headset. Regardless now I know a lot more about the topic. After all that, I decided quite a bit of dirt probably got in during the hassles and decided to re-grease the bearings.

How my bike sometimes looks

How my bike sometimes looks

It seems like the number of variations for headset bearings is a lot. I couldn’t find an example the same as mine, so I figured I’d put some pictures up here. I tried recording the whole thing, but that was humorously terrible :) So instead I just took some screen shots.

The bike is a Merida Ninety Nine 9. 600. The headset is described as “big conoid semi”. It makes use of non-sealed roller ball bearings. The lower bearing is just a bearing, and the upper bearing consists a bearing, a seal, an upper race and a centring ring. If you do do this, I really recommend getting a nice bike stand, my bike was falling all over the place while I was trying to hold it together.

  • Loosen clamps on fork stem
There are two bolts on the stem (one on either side) and one on top for tensioning

There are two bolts on the stem (one on either side) and one on top for tensioning

  • Remove fork and bearings
  • Clean bearings and races (I just used paper towel, but some degreaser will help)
Bearing after having grease removed

Bearing after having grease removed

  • Place some grease on the races and bearings (I just bought a small tube of automotive grease from local hardware store).
  • Replace all bearings in order you removed them
Bottom bearing goes in with balls upwards (towards bike frame)

Bottom bearing goes in with balls upwards (towards bike frame)

Top bearing goes in balls facing down (towards bike frame)

Top bearing goes in balls facing down (towards bike frame)

Top bearing gets additional seal, upper race and tension cone

Top bearing gets additional seal, upper race and tension cone

  • Tighten bolt on-top of fork (to tension the package), then tighten clamps on stem.
    • If you’re unsure how tight they must be, find specified torques in your bike’s technical manual.

Faulty Guitar Hero Guitar – multiple button presses (disassembly)

A friend recently picked up a 2nd hand Guitar Hero guitar. It worked mostly well, but at times when pressing some of the frets, other frets would also register. This makes playing the games normally a nightmare, as you’re currently being penalised for mistakes you didn’t actually make.

I took it apart but couldn’t find much wrong with it, besides some odd design decisions. /start side rant

There are 5 buttons on the fretboard. So if I were to design it, I would have 6 wires, 1 for each button, and one ground. But the fretboard has 8 connectors. I’m not sure if it allows a wire to be damaged and it to continue to work, but it doesn’t seem so. All I can think is that they had 8 pin connectors, and decided to use them. On the guitar itself, the 8 pins connect to a small PCB, with 6 lines coming from it straight to the microcontroller. It confuses me.

/end side rant

I didn’t have any way to test the guitar, so I gave it back, but my friend returned saying it seemed slightly worse. This was concerning. I got him to return it to me so I could take another look, this time requesting the receiver dongle as well so I could do testing myself.

USB Guitar Hero Dongle

USB Guitar Hero Dongle

The USB receiver is detected by Windows, and shows up as a game controller, so it’s quite easy to test the response of the system. What I found is that when the red button was depressed, the yellow button would trigger for a few 100ms as well. And likewise when depressing the yellow button, the red button would also be triggered for a few 100ms.

Windows sees the Guitar Hero as a gamepad, allowing one to monitor the inputs.

Windows sees the Guitar Hero as a gamepad, allowing one to monitor the inputs.

So again I opened up the guitar, spent some time with a multi-meter probing around, but didn’t find much. The connection from the buttons to the microcontroller all seemed to be in order, without any obvious problems. I don’t know what the problem actually was. The soldering on the board was relatively poor in my opinion, quite a bit of splatter, and several potentially joined lines. I took a scalpel to the board and cleared off any extra residue and solder I noted. Plugged everything back in and it all appears to be functioning 100%.

Main PCB, some solder contamination noted.

Main PCB, some solder contamination noted.

Again, I don’t know what was/is actually wrong with the board. Time will tell if the problem reoccurs, but at the moment it seems to be working well.

Disassembly
The guitar is fairly straightforward to disassemble. The fretboard pops out and is secured by multiple Torx-screws, and inside the PCB is secured by the same screws.

Screws to loosen to open fretboard

Screws to loosen to open fretboard

Two screws holding PCB in place. Slight press-fit.

Two screws holding PCB in place. Slight press-fit.

The body of the guitar is similarly assembled. Remove the face plate and loosen all the screws on the back (11 in total, one is hidden behind a ‘warranty void’ sticker). Take care when separating, as the whammy bar needs to be threaded through, and some wires connect the two halves of the guitar together (namely the battery connector), these can be unplugged fairly easily.

Location of screws to loosen to open guitar body

Location of screws to loosen to open guitar body

The main PCB is secured by screws which can be easily removed to give access to the board.

Location of various items within the guitar body

Location of various items within the guitar body